When This Checklist Applies
You're managing a commercial build-out, a multi-unit renovation, or a single high-end residential project in Florida. Your role? Make sure the tile arrives, the installation happens, and the budget doesn't blow up. You're an administrator, not a designer or a contractor, but you're the one who has to coordinate the whole thing.
This checklist is for that moment when someone hands you a tile selection—maybe a Florida Tile Urban Foundry series like 'Ainslee Park' or 'Malibu White'—and says, "Order this." It covers the steps from quote to delivery, plus the coordination points that often get missed. There are roughly six steps, and step four is the one everyone forgets until it costs them.
Step 1: Confirm the Product Specs (Before You Get a Quote)
First, verify exactly what product is being specified. This sounds obvious, but I've seen orders placed for the wrong color name (urban foundry has multiple shades), wrong size, or the wrong material entirely (ceramic vs. porcelain vs. slate). Three things to check:
- Full product name and SKU. Don't rely on a color name alone. Florida Tile's product lines have specific codes. The design team may refer to a tile as 'the gray one'—that's not enough.
- Tile dimensions. A 12x24 rectified porcelain tile has different installation requirements and grout spacing than a 12x12 ceramic.
- Material type. For outdoor or pool applications, slate or porcelain is often required over ceramic. For a roof tile cost consideration in Florida, the material profile (clay vs. concrete vs. porcelain) is critical—clay is usually the premium option, but concrete can be more cost-effective if properly installed.
I'd also confirm quantities with the installer. The design spec might say 500 square feet, but the installer's waste factor (usually 10-15% for straight lay, 15-20% for diagonal or pattern) will change the order quantity. When I order, I ask the installing contractor: "Are you using 10% or 15% waste on this layout?" It seems like a small detail, but it can mean the difference between having enough and needing a panic re-order. (Panic re-orders don't match, by the way—dye lots vary.)
Step 2: Get a TCO Quote, Not Just a Unit Price
This is where the total-cost-of-ownership thinking kicks in. A supplier quotes $2.50/sqft for the tile. Great. But what else is attached to that? I ask for a full breakdown:
- Product cost. Per square foot or per box. Is it priced per square foot or per tile? (Some suppliers price per piece, which is a math trap.)
- Delivery. Is it flat-rate, per box, tiered by quantity? For a Florida project, from a distributor in the southeast, it might be $150-$300 for a full pallet. But if it's a partial quantity, the per-box shipping could kill your budget.
- Lead time. When can it ship? The $500 quote that ships in 4 weeks might be useless if your schedule is 3 weeks. The $650 quote that ships in 1 week is actually cheaper in terms of schedule risk. (That's a TCO argument.)
- Minimum order. Some products have a minimum quantity, especially for special-order or discontinued lines. We ran into this with Urban Foundry's 'Malibu White'—the minimum was 10 boxes, more than we needed. Ended up pallet-sharing with another contractor.
I quote this using a simple spreadsheet: base price + shipping + rush fees (if any) + potential restocking fees (if wrong). Then I compare. Almost always, the lowest unit price is not the lowest total cost. It takes 15 minutes to do this—worth it.
Step 3: Verify Installation & Accessories Requirements
This step is where administrators earn their pay. The tile is ordered, but you can't install a tile without the right backer board, thinset, grout, and trim. For a Florida installation (high humidity, potential moisture), the material selection is non-negotiable.
Checklist for installation materials:
- Backer board. Cement board or denshield? For shower niches and wet areas, cement board is standard. I've seen orders fail because someone ordered drywall for a shower surround.
- Thinset. Modified vs. unmodified? For porcelain tile, modified thinset is usually required. For natural stone (slate), white thinset to avoid shadowing.
- Grout. Sanded vs. unsanded? Grout line width is the deciding factor. For 1/8" lines or less, unsanded. For anything larger, sanded.
- Trim & profiles. This is the one everyone forgets. Schluter trim (the metal edge strips) come in various profiles and finishes. For a shower niche, the Schluter Rondec or Quadec is what you need. If the tile is 3/8" thick, you buy the 3/8" profile. Ordering the wrong profile means the trim doesn't fit. I've seen a project delayed by 3 days because the installer had to source the right trim locally.
- Frameless shower door. If you're ordering a frameless shower door, the glass thickness (usually 3/8" or 1/2") and the hinge pattern need to be coordinated with the tile installation. The door company will want to know the finished wall thickness after tile is installed—that means you need the tile thickness and thinset thickness before they can fabricate.
I now include a "Verification of Installation Materials" step in my ordering process. It's a separate checklist that I hand to the installer to sign off on before I place the tile order. It eliminated the "wrong material" calls.
Step 4: The Oversight Step—Accessories & Cleaning Products
This is the step no one thinks about until they're standing in a finished shower with hard water stains and don't know how to clean it. I'm talking about:
- Sealer. For natural stone (slate, marble), a penetrating sealer is required before grouting and periodically after. For porcelain and ceramic, not usually needed, but check the spec. I had a project where the owner specified slate floor tile—no sealer ordered on the takeoff. After installation, the slate soaked up water and darkened. The client was unhappy (ugh).
- Grout sealer. Especially for sanded grout in wet areas. I order a spray-on grout sealer and include it in the materials list.
- Glass cleaner for shower doors. After installation, the frameless shower door will need a specific cleaner (not ammonia-based, which can damage the seals). I include a bottle of approved glass cleaner with the final handover kit. It's a small cost (~$8) but it makes the client feel like everything is handled.
- Screen door repair supplies. If the project involves any sliding screen doors, check the rollers and track condition. A $12 roller replacement kit can fix a dragging door—cheaper than a service call. (I keep a small inventory of standard screen door rollers for exactly this reason.)
Here's a real-world example: in 2023, I ordered tile for a four-unit apartment complex near Tampa. I specified the tile, the thinset, the grout. Missed the Schluter trim for the shower niches and the sealer for the slate accent wall. The installer called me three days before the install date looking for those items. I had to rush-order from a different supplier (with a $75 rush fee) (unfortunately). Three things: tile, trim, sealer. In that order. I check them all now.
Step 5: Coordinate Delivery Schedule & Site Conditions
Delivery isn't just about when it arrives—it's about where and how. I ask the contractor:
- Is the site ready? The subfloor should be prepped, the substrate level, and the area free of debris before tile arrives. Delivering tile too early means it sits in a damp garage and warps.
- Where will the tile be stored? Inside, on a flat surface, protected from moisture. If the site doesn't have indoor storage, I delay delivery until it's available.
- Can someone accept the delivery? Someone needs to sign for it, check for damage, and count boxes. A curbside delivery left unattended can disappear. (I had a delivery of 25 boxes of porcelain tile left in a parking lot once. Five boxes were cracked. The driver's signature was illegible. It took two weeks to get a claim resolved.)
I schedule delivery for at least 48 hours before the installation start date. The tile needs to acclimate to the job site temperature (especially important in Florida's high heat). I also make sure the contractor has a pallet jack or dolly—moving 60-pound boxes of tile by hand is a recipe for injury.
Step 6: Final Verification (Proofing the Order)
Before the installer opens the first box, do a final check:
- Count boxes against the packing slip.
- Check dye lot numbers. All boxes should have the same dye lot for a consistent color run. Mixed dye lots can lead to visible color variation.
- Inspect for obvious damage (chipped corners, cracks).
- Verify trim and accessories are present and correct (Schluter profile matches tile thickness).
I learned this the hard way: we ordered 'Indulge' series tile for a master bath renovation. When delivery arrived, I signed without checking. The installer opened the boxes the next day—two boxes had a different dye lot. The color was noticeably different on the wall. The supplier required us to pay return shipping on the wrong dye lot boxes. Cost us $180 in freight and a 7-day delay.
Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them
- Assuming "standard" means the same size. Tile sizes vary by manufacturer. A 12x24 tile from one brand may actually measure 11.8x23.6. Grout spacing depends on actual dimensions.
- Forgetting that refunds and exchanges on special-order tile (like Urban Foundry lines) are limited. Some suppliers don't accept returns on non-stock items. Confirm the return policy before purchase.
- Not planning for broken tiles. Order 10-15% extra for breakage during transport and installation. Do not open the extra boxes until the end, so you can return unopened boxes if not needed.
- Using the wrong cleaner. On natural stone, acidic cleaners etch the surface. Provide a cleaning guide along with the handover package: "Stone: pH-neutral cleaner only. Glass: approved glass cleaner. Porcelain: mild detergent."
Bottom line: ordering tile in Florida is not complicated, but it requires a process. The checklist above will save you time, money, and those "I forgot something" calls. It took me about three years and several thousand dollars in mistakes to build this routine—so you don't have to.