If you're ordering tile for a project in Florida—or anywhere, really—and you're not using a pre-dispatch checklist, you're gambling. I learned this the hard way.
In my first year handling orders (2017), I made the classic mistake of assuming the digital proof was the final product. I approved a $3,200 order for a client's new home in Jacksonville without a single physical sample check. The result? The 'Malibu White' ceramic we received had a color variation of Delta E 4.5 from the sample. It was noticeable to everyone. The entire order ended up being scrapped, plus we lost a week on the schedule. That error cost us $890 in redo fees and a significant chunk of credibility.
Since then, I've documented every mistake our team has made. We've caught 47 potential errors using the checklist I'm about to give you in the past 18 months alone. This isn't theory. This is a list of steps I wish I had in 2017.
Here’s the 12-point checklist for ordering tile that will save you time, money, and a massive headache.
1. Verify the Tile Body Type (It's Not Always Porcelain)
People assume all ceramic tiles are the same. The reality is there's a massive difference between fully-vitrified porcelain (which is extremely water-resistant) and standard ceramic (which is more porous). For a Florida bathroom floor, you want porcelain, period. I don't have hard data on industry-wide defect rates, but based on our 5 years of orders, my sense is that about 10% of 'porcelain' orders we see from clients are actually mis-classified ceramic if you check the spec sheet carefully.
Check the manufacturer's spec for water absorption rate. It should be 0.5% or less for true porcelain.
2. Confirm the Rectification Status
From the outside, a tile looks like a tile. The reality is there are two types: rectified and non-rectified. Rectified tiles are mechanically cut to exact dimensions. Non-rectified tiles have slight variations. For a modern, minimalist install with thin grout lines (1/16 inch), you must order rectified tile. If you use non-rectified and try for a tight joint, you'll get lippage. It’s a rookie mistake that looks terrible.
3. Check the Shade Number on Every Box (Not Just One)
This is the number one mistake I see. People check one box's shade number and assume the whole pallet is the same. In September 2022, we had a project where a client approved a sample from Box A, but the majority of the order came from Box B. The shade variation was visible. The mistake affected a $2,100 order. We had to re-sort the entire lot. The lesson: open at least 3 boxes from different pallets. Compare them under natural light.
4. Measure the Actual Tile Size (Don't Trust the Catalog)
I wish I had tracked this more carefully from the start. A '12x24' tile is often 11.7 x 23.8 inches. The catalog says 12x24. Your layout plan is based on 12x24. The actual tile is a different size. This difference compounds over a large floor. For a 200-square-foot floor, a 1/8 inch difference in width can mean your last row of tile is either too big or too small. Always get the actual dimensions from a physical sample.
5. Order 10-15% Overage (And Know Why)
Don't just order 10% because someone told you to. The calculation is based on your layout. For a straight lay, 10% is usually fine. For a diagonal or herringbone pattern, you need 15-20%. The waste isn't just breakage. It's the cuts at the edges. A complex pattern generates more waste. Also, if you have a lot of corners and architectural features (like in many modern Florida homes), you'll need more. I once ordered 10% over for a diagonal pattern. We ran out. Had to order a second batch that didn't match the first. That was a $450 mistake plus a 1-week delay.
6. Check for a 'First Quality' vs. 'Second Quality' Label
Most suppliers sell 'first quality' tiles. But sometimes you'll see a deal on 'second quality' or 'factory selects.' These tiles have minor cosmetic flaws—pinholes, slight color splotches. If you're doing a commercial lobby or a high-end residential project, don't buy them. They’re fine for a shed or a garage. I've seen a $4,000 order get rejected because 20% of the tiles had visible 'pinholes' after installation.
7. Verify the Grout Joint Recommendation from the Manufacturer
The size of the grout joint isn't just a design choice. The manufacturer often has a minimum recommended joint size. If you go smaller than that, the tile can 'tent' due to thermal expansion. In Florida, with our heat and humidity, this is critical. For a large-format tile (like the 24x48 slates), the minimum grout joint is often 1/8 inch, not 1/16 inch. Check the technical data sheet (TDS) on the manufacturer's website. That's an authoritative source, not the sales guy's opinion. (Source: TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, and Stone Tile Installation).
8. Inspect the Edge Profile (Pillowed vs. Sharp)
People assume all tiles have a sharp, 90-degree edge. Many, especially stone-look porcelain, have a 'pillowed' or 'tumbled' edge. This means the edge is slightly rounded. If you try to put a Schluter trim (anodized aluminum edge) next to a pillowed tile, the fit will look sloppy. You need to match the edge profile to the type of trim you're using. A Sharpie line on the back of a sample tile is not a substitute for a proper profile check.
9. Confirm the Delivery Method and Lead Time (Especially for Roof Tile)
This is specific to Florida. Roof tile (like the Malibu White we mentioned) is heavy. A pallet of S-tile can weigh 2,500 lbs. Can your driveway handle a 22-ton delivery truck? Is there access for a boom truck? We had a job in South Florida where the client's driveway was too narrow for the standard truck. We had to offload the pallet at the curb and hand-carry it up the driveway. Added $800 to the labor cost. Ask the supplier what the delivery method is: 'tailgate drop' (they leave it on the street) or 'boom truck' (they can place it closer).
10. Get a Written Warranty, Not a Verbal Promise
The assumption is that 'first quality' means a full warranty. The reality is the warranty often covers manufacturing defects only, not color variation or installation damage. And it's almost always pro-rated. Get it in writing. A common trap is a 'lifetime warranty' that, upon reading the fine print, only covers the tile's structural integrity for 10 years, not the surface glaze. The gloss on a cheap ceramic tile can wear off in 5 years in a high-traffic area.
11. Plan for Expansion Joints (Not Just a Spacer)
We aren't talking about grout joints. We're talking about actual expansion joints in the substrate. For large floors (over 8 feet in either direction or 150 square feet), you need an expansion joint in the tile field. This is often required by the TCNA Handbook. If you don't install one, the tile will crack. I've seen it happen on a 200-square-foot floor in a commercial space because the installer didn't know. The cracked tiles had to be replaced, and we had to cut a new expansion joint. That was a $600 lesson.
12. The Final Step: The 'Dry Layout' Before Installation
Don't start setting tile from the corner. Do a dry layout first. Lay out a grid of tiles without adhesive to see how the pattern works, where the cuts will be, and if the shade variation is acceptable. The 12-point checklist I created after my third mistake has saved us an estimated $8,000 in potential rework. 5 minutes of verification beats 5 days of correction.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Don't skip the substrate check. Tile is only as good as the surface it's on. A concrete slab needs to be cured for 28 days. A wood subfloor needs to be structurally sound. If you tile over a cracked slab, the tile will crack in the same spot.
Don't assume all Schluter products are the same. The profile (Deko, Quadec, Jolly) functionally different. A Schluter Deko is a surface mount; Quadec is for corners. Using the wrong one creates a trip hazard or a visible seam. Verify against the install plan.
Never trust a digital photo. The first step of the checklist is the physical sample. The last step is the dry layout. Everything in between is a verification. That 2017 mistake? I haven't repeated it. Because I check.
